Meeting a Kaka for the first time

When I disembarked the ferry, there was sweet Raylene holding a sign that said “Welcome to Glendaruel”…my home for the next two nights.  We packed the luggage into her car and for the umpteenth time, I was told “Anne, the other side”.  This whole driving on the left thing is a wee bit confusing.  Her home is just on the other side of the “hill” so I quickly realized that I was glad I did not have to carry/pull/trudge luggage up the so-called “hill”.              When I walked upstairs, I looked out the patio doors to admire Raylene’s beautiful garden. Sitting on the hand rail was a Kaka which is about the size of our American crow, but so much more charming.  In reading about the Kaka, it was always described as “cheeky” and now I understand what that means.  It is a confident, friendly, and entertainingly gorgeous parrot that will land close to you in hopes of getting a treat.  Within a minute, he (or she as they are not dimorphic and we could not tell the difference), this cheeky parrot was eating peanuts out of my hand.  This very intelligent bird will even knock on the glass door when they see a light turned on so they can beg for a treat.        “And, Anne, we have been invited to dinner with my Italian friend who is a fabulous cook”.  Ahhh, music to my ears, a home cooked meal. I met Nicoletta who is a master in the kitchen, Joan – a longtime friend, Wendy – who works for DOC and is one of the most environmentally conscientious people I have met, and Norm who has a wicked sense of humor and such thick Scottish brogue that I am not sure I always knew what I was laughing at!    Menu: shepherd’s pie, potato salad, garden salad, fresh baked oysters, smoked salmon caught the day before, and a fresh fruit tart with whipped cream.     

     

In settling in for the night, I am still hoping to see the elusive Kiwi.  Being nocturnal and very shy, they are very elusive.  At dinner, I was taught how to listen for the Kiwi and distinguish between the male and female by their calls.  When the locals say that the call is “quite loud and distinguishable”, they are not kidding.  I did hear a male and female calling that night, and they did wake me from a very sound sleep.      

    

Morning dawned and I had my best night’s sleep yet on my journey.  After a wonderful cooked breakfast, Raylene, with McPherson (Scottish terrier) in tow, walked with me to the water taxi dock just down the hill.  The clouds were settling in and within minutes, the fog surrounded us.  Matt, my guide for the morning to Ulva Island, was waiting.  After a brief introduction, Raylene left and we waited for the only other Matt on Stewart Island to arrive with the water taxi.  The short taxi ride was mystical in the fog and with the captain’s trained eyes; I was treated to a drive by of some Little Blue Penguins swimming in the harbor.   

         

This time of year, the tours are not done during the week and are scheduled on weekends when they have at least four people book.  In my correspondence with Ulva Goodwillie (sixth generation Maori from Stewart Island) who owns and runs tours to Ulva Island, she informed me that she would be in the UK at a conference and would forward my information to Matt, her assistant. 

Matt offered for me to “tag along” to Ulva Island on his day off, so I assumed that I would reach the shore of Ulva then take off on my own.  This was certainly not the case.  Matt gave me a three hour in-depth tour of the island, walking most of the trails, teaching me the history, locating rare birds, discussing the flora and fauna, and entertaining me with Maori folklore.  This was more than I had ever imagined.   Matt then offered to take me on another excursion that afternoon with a representative of SIRCET.  If you would like to know more about Ulva Island or about catching rats, possums (not like our opossums), or deer, catch my next posts!