Counting Birds

 

Looking for Sea Lions but none were out.

Arriving into the Catlins in the evening, dusk was falling and with this was my first day of driving on the left, I wanted to get to Mohua Lodge before dark.  I turned off at the sign in the middle of absolutely nowhere to see I still had 12 km. to go on an unsealed road.  This off road experience took me past sheep and cow pastures, winding rivers, and peaceful valleys.                                  Upon turning into the entrance to Mohua Lodge, it felt as if I had entered an enchanted forest.  Trees overhanging, ferns lining the path, and birds singing a fond welcome.  Mary and Fergus Southerland greeted me and directed me to an adorable Eco-Cottage that had all the amenities that made for a perfectly quiet and peaceful stay.  I unpacked, joined them for dinner and was delighted to talk to Mary’s 91 year old mother who was a teacher, as well as Mary and Fergus being educators also.                                 As with everyone that I have met so far, they wanted to discuss how to assist me with plans to make the most of my visit.  It just happened that my visit coincided with the National Bird Count for NZ, so Fergus invited me to go with him the following morning.  Timing is everything!                     That night was the first night that there was no cloud cover, so I stopped outside my cottage and gazed up in awe.  NZ is considered a “dark spot” in the world so the stargazing is incredible.  Even though I did not know how to pick out the Southern Cross, I absolutely knew that I was seeing the Milky Way for the first time along with thousands of other stars shining just as brightly.     I slipped into the cottage, no TV, no WiFi, no clock and fell asleep.  My internal alarm woke me at 4 a.m., in plenty of time to get ready for our early morning departure for bird counting.        Leaving Mohua Lodge at 5:45 in the pitch black, we had about a 30 minute drive to get to our counting station.  We pulled off the road, clambered over the fence with the car lights to guide us, then proceeded to walk though cow pastures in the black of night with torches (flashlights) as our only light source.  After 40 minutes of dodging cow patties, fences, gullies, and bushes, we wandered out onto a narrow ledge lined by flax.  Which by the way, flax is a great plant to grab as you are teetering on the edge of the ledge.   A quick snack, then binoculars in hand, we waited.  Fergus was the first to spot one and I struggled to see it in the black.  But soon, I could depict the silhouette of my first Yellow Eyed Penguin.  Then, I watched as several walked and hopped down onto the rocks beside the edge of the tide.  They appeared one by one until we counted a total of 15 which is an increase of three from the last count.  They waited.  Some stood with flippers held back and their chests puffed out.  Some just stood with a fixed stare at the waves.  The last one (most likely a juvenile) finally wandered out with just minutes to spare before the first rays of dawn hit the beach.  Then, they moved to the edge, watched the waves, and jumped in when they were ready to start a full day of hunting for food.  The experience was truly magical and one I will never forget.  I know my pictures are not very good quality, but they are pictures that I took of these beautiful birds.  If you look closely, you may see the yellow band over their eyes.                    

Fergus checking rat and possum traps

This is a penguin nest on the hillside overlooking our counting ledge.





After counting, we had to hike to the farthest hill to get back to the car.



 We then left to have breakfast at Florence Hill lookout.  The rain was perched over the ocean edge; we were very lucky to have missed the downpours on our Penguin count.  After breakfast, we drove up to a wetland to count spoonbills, but to no avail.  Although, I did get to see the Fern Bird which is very difficult to spot.  They live in the wetland reeds but are adapted to live on the muddy bottom, with a tail that acts as a third leg for balance in the mud.  You can watch for the reed to move, and if lucky, one will hop up and fly for about 3 meters before going back down to the mud.        We also toured an abandoned logging facility.  Logging took a devastating toll on NZ in general when the industrial revolution occurred.  So many natural forests were stripped, habitats lost, and species became extinct.  Conservation efforts did not begin until the 1980’s after NZ had lost over 70% of its naturally forested areas.                  Many discussions ensued with Fergus and Mary about the conservation efforts that they have been a part of since the 1980’s.  They were “green” when green was not accepted and actually despised by farmers.  Now, the DOC and many small groups support the restoration of wetlands, forests, and riparian buffers.  Fergus was responsible for the purchase and establishment of protected areas for the Yellow Eyed Penguins. 



Stopped on the way back to hike to the falls, or should I say major rock scramble.